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Is the Bloodhound Right for You?
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The Bloodhound
is a scent hound of great size and strength with a noble, dignified
expression.
He has superabundant loose skin that falls into loose, pendulous folds
especially noticeable around the head and neck. Although his beginnings
are left to speculation we owe his development to St. Hubert, the patron
saint of the hunter. It was believed he originally obtained his stock from
southern France. This breeding was carried on after his death by the abbots,
who succeeded him. Not everyone should own a Bloodhound The swing of a
bloodhound's head can spread saliva across a 20 foot room, and years of
antiques can be destroyed by his stroll through your living room. His adoration
of children and love of his human family make him a wonderful family companion. -
Know the Bloodhound Before you Buy
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Further Reading Material The Complete Bloodhound - by Catherine F. Brey and Lena F. Reed. Howell Book House Inc. Available from Dogs In Canada, Toronto, Ontario How to Raise and Train a Bloodhound - by Hylda Owen. TFH Publications. Available at most pet shops. Yankee, the Inside Story of a Champion Bloodhound - by Roger Caras, G.P. Putnam's Sons, 200 MMadison Ave., New York, NY 10016
If you have decided that the Bloodhound is the breed for
you, it is imperative that you invest the time and effort to find out the
characteristics, requirements, advantages and drawbacks of owning this
noble hound. Attend dog shows in your area and study the Bloodhounds as
they are judged; talk to exhibitors and breeders. Visit as many kennels
as possible and compare the puppies that are available. This may be difficult
as there are few Bloodhound breeders.
Facts to Consider Before You Purchase
Location- If you live in an apartment, think seriously before purchasing a Bloodhound. An 8 week old, 20 lb. puppy will fit into a condo when it's purchased, but a Bloodhound puppy grows 4 - 7 lbs. per week and 1/2" - 1" in height per week. He will shortly outgrow your lovely "little condo". A Bloodhound prefers a fenced yard and room to grow. Family Decision- If you want a Bloodhound for the family but your wife wants something smaller, think twice. Statistics show that the wife does most of the feeding, training, cleaning and grooming. As your hound grows in size, your wife's enthusiasm will fad in relation to the increased needs of this giant. Never purchase a puppy to "grow up with the baby" unless you are prepared to cope with the extra work load.
Location- If you live in an apartment, think seriously before purchasing a Bloodhound. An 8 week old, 20 lb. puppy will fit into a condo when it's purchased, but a Bloodhound puppy grows 4 - 7 lbs. per week and 1/2" - 1" in height per week. He will shortly outgrow your lovely "little condo". A Bloodhound prefers a fenced yard and room to grow. Family Decision- If you want a Bloodhound for the family but your wife wants something smaller, think twice. Statistics show that the wife does most of the feeding, training, cleaning and grooming. As your hound grows in size, your wife's enthusiasm will fad in relation to the increased needs of this giant. Never purchase a puppy to "grow up with the baby" unless you are prepared to cope with the extra work load.
Breeding
- Breeding any purebred stock
is an art and a science requiring an in-depth knowledge of genetics,bloodlines
and breeding characteristics.To ensure future breed strengths and type
it is essential that only the most superior hounds are bred. Many inexperienced
new owners try to "recover" their original purchase cost by breeding a
"litter or two". They inadvertently breed inferior quality dogs. These
people often equate a "Ch" with breeding quality. A few have the "sale
of the week" with hopes of unloading older puppies. If you have the desire
to breed for income or to supplement your income, choose a breed that is
less costlyto raiseand has a more extensive market. Most breeders sell
their puppies with a "Non-Breeding Contract", which is registered with
the Canadian Kennel Club, and is kept with the dog's file.The Non-Breeding
contract on a dog means that the dog cannot be bred, and if he/she IS bred,
then the puppies of the resulting litter cannot be registered. The breeder
may have certain conditions which must be met, and then arrange to have
the Non-Breeding Contract removed from the dog's file. Some breeders will
even have their pups spayed/neutered at a young age prior to letting them
go to their new homes.
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Showing- If you want a show dog, it is essential that you make this fact clear to the breeder. No breeder can guarantee you a "Ch.", but he can select a puppy that in his opinion, is of superior quality and free of visible faults that would eliminate the puppy from show competition.
Tracking or Trailing- This is the breed's main purpose and intent. Bloodhounds are know as a "nose that has eyes". Field work can be most fulfilling and exciting as you and your dog work as a "team". Field work requires a lot of hard work, time and patience but is worth every minute when your dog has a TD (Tracking Dog title) or TDX (Tracking Dog Excellent title). This work is not for everyone or everydog. Protection- Is he a watchdog? Yes! Is he a guard dog? NO! NO! NO!! Guard dogs and watch dogs are not synonymous. The end result of people who try, is a vicious, unpredictable and potential four-legged lawsuit in their backyard. the Bloodhound is a very sensitive breed. He is extremely intelligent and quick to learn if the owner is patient and capable of communicating his needs to him.
Obedience- it is highly recommended that you take your dog to obedience classes at a young age. You must realize that a full-grown male can reach up to 130 lbs, and it is best to have some control over the dog while he is still young and before he is large enough to drag you off your feet.
There are obedience trials where you can obtain the titles CD, CDX and UD. Bloodhounds may not learn as quickly as some other breeds, but they can certainly learn through slow, steady training and patience on your part.
Rescue- Both the Canadian and American Bloodhound Clubs have rescue systems in place, whereby mature dogs are retrieved from shelters or turned in by their owners, and placed in loving homes. All Bloodhound rescue organizations require a donation for the dog, which has been spayed/neutered, is current on their vaccinations and temperament evaluated. More information and an application form can be obtained by contacting one of the rescue coordinators listed in this site.
What Should a Novice Look For in a Puppy?
1. Get to know the breeder. Visit him,
talk to him, become acquainted with his stock and his breeding record.
Breeders who are members of the Canadian Bloodhound Club are required to
sign and abide by the club's Code of Ethics.
2. Check his kennel for cleanliness, odour, clean drinking and eating utensils and the care and housing he gives his hounds. 3. Puppies should be healthy, clean and happy with clear eyes and noses. A puppy should stand with all four feet pointing forward, big tight feet, heavy bone, ears that reach the tip of the nose, square lip, narrowing face and noticeable loose skin around the head and neck.
4. Puppies should be outgoing and curious with a happy, "tailwagging" disposition, rather than nervous or shrinking from visitors.
5. Age is important. Beware of the breeder who tries to sell you a puppy less than 8 weeks old. However, many breeders do not let a puppy go to a new home before it is 10 to 12 weeks.
6. There is no preference given to the colour in the Breed Standard or in the show ring. The colours are black/tan, liver/tan and red (tawny).
7. Visible faults can be checked in a young puppy of 10 weeks; over or underbite, feet badly turned in or out and screw tails. It is your responsibility as a buyer to discuss any faults you don't understand with the breeder.

2. Check his kennel for cleanliness, odour, clean drinking and eating utensils and the care and housing he gives his hounds. 3. Puppies should be healthy, clean and happy with clear eyes and noses. A puppy should stand with all four feet pointing forward, big tight feet, heavy bone, ears that reach the tip of the nose, square lip, narrowing face and noticeable loose skin around the head and neck.
4. Puppies should be outgoing and curious with a happy, "tailwagging" disposition, rather than nervous or shrinking from visitors.
5. Age is important. Beware of the breeder who tries to sell you a puppy less than 8 weeks old. However, many breeders do not let a puppy go to a new home before it is 10 to 12 weeks.
6. There is no preference given to the colour in the Breed Standard or in the show ring. The colours are black/tan, liver/tan and red (tawny).
7. Visible faults can be checked in a young puppy of 10 weeks; over or underbite, feet badly turned in or out and screw tails. It is your responsibility as a buyer to discuss any faults you don't understand with the breeder.
8. Puppies should have their first set of puppy vaccinations
before they go to their new homes (DHLP-Parvo) and complete instructions
for follow-up vaccinations.
9. It is the breeders responsibility to supply the
purchaser with full feeding instructions, a complete medical record, a
3 to 4 generation pedigree and CKC registration papers. YOU SHOULD ASK
FOR A WRITTEN CONTRACT.
10. BEWARE OF PUPPY MILLS AND PET SHOPS! These puppies are shipped, sometimes as early as 5 weeks old, from dams that are improperly fed and cared for during pregnancy and without the socialization and nutritional care so necessary for healthy development. There are no "Bargain" Bloodhounds.
10. BEWARE OF PUPPY MILLS AND PET SHOPS! These puppies are shipped, sometimes as early as 5 weeks old, from dams that are improperly fed and cared for during pregnancy and without the socialization and nutritional care so necessary for healthy development. There are no "Bargain" Bloodhounds.
Informative Web Sites

No breeder has a corner on the market
. Be honest with the breeders you visit. Tell them what you want in a Bloodhound
- companion, show dog or working dog. As a novice, you will be in a better
position to finally select and purchase a puppy that will fit into your
home as a friend and companion if you are well informed about the breed
you have chosen. The ethical, concerned breeder will ask you many personal
questions because he cares about the welfare of each of his puppies. The
unethical breeder and pet shop are only concerned with your checkbook.
If for some reason you are unable to keep your dog, contact the breeder.
The reputable breeder will take the dog back willingly. Few pet stores
can make the same claim.
knowledge of genetics,bloodlines
and breeding characteristics.To ensure future breed strengths and type
it is essential that only the most superior hounds are bred. Many inexperienced
new owners try to "recover" their original purchase cost by breeding a
"litter or two". They inadvertently breed inferior quality dogs. These
people often equate a "Ch" with breeding quality. A few have the "sale
of the week" with hopes of unloading older puppies. If you have the desire
to
breed for income or to supplement your income, choose a breed that is
less costlyto raiseand has a more extensive market. Most breeders sell
their puppies with a "Non-Breeding Contract", which is registered with
the Canadian Kennel Club, and is kept with the dog's file.The Non-Breeding
contract on a dog means that the dog cannot be bred, and if he/she IS bred,
then the puppies of the resulting litter cannot be registered. The breeder
may have certain conditions which must be met, and then arrange to have
the Non-Breeding Contract removed from the dog's file. Some breeders will
even have their pups spayed/neutered at a young age prior to letting them
go to their new homes.
